All prices are in Australian Dollar (AUD)
Up to this point I wasn’t very sure what sort of look I was going for with the interior of the van. I’d always enjoyed the look of the timber panels inside a van, but also wanted something smooth and plain to compliment and contrast the timber.
As I progressed with sheeting the walls, and then painting them white I started to become more sure with what look I was after. I like the mix between danish oil stained timber with white walls and cabinetry.
Don’t be worried if you aren’t too certain about how things are going to look during your van build. Throughout this van build I have had little idea of what exact interior look I was after until I was in the midst of doing it. The answers will come to you during the process of building, painting, staining etc.
There was a lot of work in this episode, especially with the sanding and vanishing of the pine timber VJ panels, however it was all worth it and I’m super happy with the outcome.
1. The first step was to fill the remaining cavities in the walls with insulation. I chose Earthwool insulation, as it isn’t itchy and is eco friendly.
2. I orginally cut up some pine timber to make battens to help fix the ply walls to. I installed them, however I did not end up screwing the wall to these battens.
They are recessed in the wall and may come in handy later for extra support for the cabinetry. I used my pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes in the battens.
3. I used the holesaw cut out scribing trick to mark the curve of the wheel arches on a scrap piece of ply. I measured and cut out the walls on 4mm bracing ply and transferred the wheel arch to the good piece.
4. To mount the walls I had the help of my mate Hayden to help hold while I pre drilled the holes for the rivets. I chose rivets for a few reasons, the first was I didn’t want the risk of the cables in the walls to eventually move and rub against a sharp screw tip over time from driving vibrations.
The other was that the rivets hold very strong into the van metal, and have a nice flush finish on the surface of the ply.
5. Before I could sheet the ceiling, I had to run the Wi-Fi cable out through the roof of the van. There will be a Wi-Fi extender antennae mounted on the roof.
I used a Deck Tight as a water tight solution for the cable to come out to the antennae. Deck Tight’s can mould to different surface shapes. It’s a good practise to have any holes in the roof to come through at the highest point, this is why I drilled it through the roof rib.
I used Sikaflex 221 to secure and seal the deck tight to the roof. I also taped a silicone nozzel to the USB cable and sprayed WD-40 to fit through the deck tight easier.
6. Next I began measuring and cutting out the pine VJ lengths to mount to the ceiling. I had the help of my mates little brother to help me secure the 4.2 meter lengths.
It’s important to get the first timber straight with the van, so that the rest of the timbers clip in nice and straight also. I pre drilled every single hole before screwing it up. I also used a stringline to get the screws as straight as possible.
7. Next i wired up the Maxx Fan’s and mounted the cover shrouds. I marked where the wires were coming through and made a small cut out of the shroud to allow the cable to fit through when the shroud is up.
Note: Make sure you don’t cut too deep on the shroud as you will see this from below.
8. I began edging in the walls with “vivid white” semi gloss paint, I used a small roller to cover the majority of the walls. I had to do about 4 or 5 coats of paint, as I didn’t sand or put a base coat down. I recommend doing this if you use a similar ply that I used.
9. I used the same VJ panelling on the walls as I did on the ceiling. I used Sikaflex 221 to mount the Vj panels to the back of the shower melamine sheeting.
I used left over 17mm ply from the floor to use as the base of the shelves. The pocket hole jig came in handy again for the shelves, and I invested in a right angle drill bit to get into the tight spaces.
10. I grabbed some baking paper and stuck sheets together with electrical tape to trace out the door cut outs. I transferred this onto scrap ply to make a template.
11. I cut out the ply template and made fine adjustments to get it perfect.
12. I then cut out and glued a bunch of VJ panels together. Once they had dried I tranferred the templates to the pre glued VJ panel boards. I sanded the outside edges to be smooth and curved.
13. I pre drilled and mounted all the boards to the doors in this step. In the video it looked like I didnt fill the doors with insulation but I filled them all.
14. It seems counter productive but once I had all the panels mounted I took them all back off, ready to sand and stain with Danish Oil. I used an entire 2L can of danish oil through the whole process.
I wanted to have all the holes drilled through the panels so I knew they fit perfect before investing time in sanding and staining them.
After every sand on the timber I removed all sanding timber dust with an air blower and damp rag. The sanding/stain process went like this:
– 1st sand with 240 grit sandpaper.
– 1st coat of danish oil.
-2nd sand with 400 grit sandpaper.
– 2nd coat of danish oil.
-3rd sand with 600 grit sandpaper.
– 3rd coat of danish oil.
-4th sand with 800 grit sandpaper.
– 4th coat of danish oil.
Congratulations you’ve now finished sheeting the van!
Some of these prices are discounted either from bulk buy or trade price. All prices are in AUD$
|4mm Bracing Ply (1200mm x 2745mm)||5||28.98||144.9|
|Pine 2.7M length (42mm x 18mm)||3||6.93||20.79|
|Pine dual VJ Lengths 4.8M (140 x 12mm)||16||10.94||175.04|
|Pine Cornice strip||2||7.6||15.2|
|Roof Deck Tight||1||8.35||8.35|
|100 PK Self Tap screws( 8 Guage x 25mm)||2||7.6||15.2|
|100 PK Aluminium Rivets||2||7.51||15.02|
|Dulux 2L Interior Paint||2||51||102|
|Danish Oil 1L||1||45||45|
|PVA Wood glue 250mL||2||6.44||12.88|
|R2.0 Earthwool Insulation||1||33.25||33.25|